Seaside Oregon Wedding License Application

Wandering through Greece in the footsteps of Odysseus

How to get around

Since there are no definitive online ferry maps for the Greek islands, if you want to plan ahead the best resource is www.Ferries.gr , which also lets you book tickets no fewer than four days in advance. Otherwise, you can buy tickets at kiosks and travel agencies in the islands.

Few islands have public transportation, so be prepared to rent cars. All port towns I visited had at least one rental-car outfit. Prices for a manual-transmission compact are 20 to 30 euros a day ($28 to $42, at $1.40 to the euro), including insurance. Some companies insist you have an international driving permit, so get one from AAA ($15).

Travel tips

For information on how strikes and protests may affect travel in Greece, visit www.livinginGreece.gr/strikes .

Sing to me of the man, O Muse — that cleverest of men, most favored by the gods, most frustrated by them, too. Sing to me of endlessly lost Odysseus, whose 10-year journey home, from the scorched and bloodstained plains of Troy to the Ionian island of Ithaca, was a decade of disaster So sing to me, I begged the Muse one Friday evening in May, or, hey, you know what? Just send me an intercity bus — I've gotta get out of here.

"Here" was the seaside town of Neapoli, at the southeastern end of the Peloponnesian peninsula of Greece, where nearly two weeks of island-hopping from the Turkish coast across the Aegean Sea had come to a sudden and maddening halt. From Cape Meleas — the last location Odysseus himself recognized before the North Wind drove him into the monster-ridden lands of myth — all I had to do was hop a bus or two to the port of Patra, and from there a ferry could take me, at long last, to Ithaca, the place Odysseus called home.

In Neapoli, however, there were no buses until morning, and I had no choice but to spend the night in this cheerful, if sleepy, seaside town. Even a day or two earlier, I wouldn't have minded. In fact, for the previous 10 days I'd been delighted by the capricious whims of bus and ferry schedules. But I was due to fly home to New York from Athens in two days, and now this delay was unbearable.

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